Sacrifice for the Good Ones

I write today glad to be sitting here instead of drifting out in the middle of the ocean somewhere. For a few minutes this morning, I wasn't sure where I would be.

You see there is surf break we've been hearing a lot about lately called fingal point. Our famous break here on Snapper Rock is a great wave (world famous) but it goes right. As a goofy footer (right foot forward) I've been itching to surf a left, it just feels more natural. Fingal is the closest place with a solid left from what I've heard. We decided today was the day to go check it out. So today Caleb, Pedro and I set out to surf fingal point.

Now for the catch, in order to get to fingal, you have to paddle across an inlet. We were up for the challenge, but as we walked over to it today we noticed a pretty significant current pulling out into the ocean. But when we watched two other guys paddle, we had to go for it. Oh yea and everyone you ask about will tell you that the inlet is full of sharks.

We took the current into account and tried to start up the channel from where wanted to end up. You can picture us jumping off the rocks and into a panicked paddle with no time to spare. Pedro was the first to go and as soon as he hit the water, he didn't look back. He was paddling as hard as he could and made pretty significant headway. Then Caleb went and he also seemed to be moving. Next it was my turn. I jumped, climbed on my board and tried to pace myself quickly, but not to run out of steam half way across. Well let me tell you, the current was ripping. About 2/3 of the way across my arms were burning, I was gasping for air and the open ocean was getting closer. I was looking around for any boats that might see me if I ended up out there. Luckily I held enough steam to make it to the other side but I was thankful to hit dry sand.

The waves did not let us down. Only a few guys were out and there were some great, clean lefts coming through. We all had more waves that we could count and had all around great session.

As much as I was dreading it, on the way back we started WAY back down the channel so we had plenty of time to paddle across before the current swept us out into the open blue. I actually made it across with time to spare before the get-out-point so my biggest worry on the way back was being shark bait.

As I said, I'm glad to be sitting here instead of drifting out in the open ocean somewhere.

Moms...yes we learned our lesson

...next time we'll wear life jackets.